Epic Re:load v2 modifications

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I have decided to upgrade the radiator for the FET to a bit larger one. I’ve also made some mountings form L shaped brackets for the potentiometer and have changed the original one to a 10 turn one.

Also, I managed to a really awesome knob for the 10 turn pot. The cool thing is that it calculates the turns and always shows the position that the potentiometer is at.

The original radiator resulted in the FET’s thermal protection kicking in when running larger loads. That’s the main reason for this “upgrade”. The radiator I used is probably a bit too large for what I want to achieve, but it can definitely dissipate the heat that the FET produces.

I could not find any box laying around that the dummy load could be mounted in, so I opted out for mounting everything on the radiator itself. In the final version I moved the control knob and the banana connectors (can be seen in the title photo) to the other side of the radiator so that it’s way more compact.

I do really like the final result. Of course, I should at least file the L brackets to make it look nicer, but the dummy load does what it’s supposed to do.

Please see a video overview of the whole process on my YouTube channel here:

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About Vaidas Sirtautas

http://vsshs.com

Posted on September 1, 2013, in Uncategorized. Bookmark the permalink. 6 Comments.

  1. what’s the max power you can now dissipate with the upgraded version ?

    • I think it’s approx 100W (12V @ 8.5A is the max that I tested it with). I have run it for a little while and it seemed to work kind of OK. I mean the FET was dissipating the heat into the radiator and not shutting down. The only thing that is a bit worrying is the PCB tracks. I think some more solder should be added to support all the current.

      I have also tested the current load with 2 cell lipo battery (discharging it at ~ 4A) and it did not overheat or cause any problems.

  2. I agree regarding the tracks, but isn’t it a multilayer board? So the tracks are inside ?

    Let say they are at the surface, I don’t see how to easily add more solder.

    • Yea, you are correct that it might be hard to do since the tracks are covered with solder mask, but soldering thick wires between to the endpoints of the tracks might help and could be an easy solution.

      About it being a multilayer board – I think it’s just double sided.

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